Chasing Swells on the Nicoya Peninsula

The forecast lit up on a Tuesday night — a long-period south swell was headed straight for the Nicoya Peninsula. By Wednesday morning I was on the ferry from Puntarenas, board bags stacked on the roof of a beat-up Land Cruiser, the salt already thick in the air.

Day 1: Santa Teresa at Dawn

I pulled into Santa Teresa just before first light. The beach was empty except for a pair of pelicans dive-bombing the shorebreak. The swell had arrived overnight: clean, head-high lines stacked to the horizon, groomed by a gentle offshore breeze.

For two hours I had the northern peak almost to myself. Fast, hollow lefts that let you draw long lines before kicking out into the channel. This is why people fall in love with this place.

Day 2: Exploring Mal País

South of Santa Teresa, the road turns to dirt and the crowds disappear entirely. Mal País offers a network of rocky point breaks and reef setups that only work on bigger swells — and today was the day.

I surfed a right-hander breaking off a volcanic reef for most of the morning. The wave had a buttery takeoff that pitched into a fast wall, perfect for working on backside snaps.

Day 3: The Comedown

The swell started to fade by the third morning, but the Nicoya Peninsula doesn't need overhead surf to be magical. I spent the day exploring tide pools, eating ceviche at a roadside stand, and watching the sunset paint the sky in shades of mango and papaya.

Costa Rica doesn't just give you waves. It gives you a rhythm.

I'll be back when the next swell lights up the charts. Pura Vida. 🤙